Research and Development Background of Cosmetic Peptides - Skin Anti Aging

Skin aging ( SA) is a series of complex biological processes in skin tissue, which is the result of the joint action of all endogenous physiological factors and exogenous environmental factors. Moreover, the programmed regulation of genetic code and the expression of related aging genes and proteins, as well as the long-term high-dose ultraviolet radiation of sunlight are one of the important factors leading to natural skin aging and photoaging.

However, regardless of the factors leading to skin aging, it can not only affect the tissue structure and physiological function of normal skin, but also affect the appearance and appearance of the outer layer of skin. Skin aging has almost become the main defense enemy for beauty seekers.

Cosmetic Peptides Development

Since Dr. Buyliss, a professor at the University of London School of Medicine, first discovered active biological activities peptides, especially natural active peptides related to skin tissue cells, such as growth factor peptides, collagen peptides, glutathione and carnosine, have been successfully applied in skin beauty and anti-aging cosmetics .

Bioactive cosmetic peptides play a unique and important physiological role in the defense and care of natural skin aging. Such as the proliferation of skin tissue cells, cell chemotaxis and migration, repair and regeneration, angiogenesis and reconstruction, pigment formation and removal, protein synthesis and secretion, metabolism and regulation, etc.

At present, the application effect of active biological peptides in beauty cosmetics is obvious, especially in the application of skin beauty and anti-aging, great progress and breakthroughs have been made.

What are Active Biological Peptides?

Peptides are a class of biologically active substances that are linked by two or more amino acids with peptide bonds. It is an intermediate product of protein and a fragment whose structure is between amino acid and protein. 

A large number of scientific studies have shown that active biological polypeptides are actually composed of 20 natural amino acids in different arrangements and shapes through peptide chains, that is, complex linear and circular structures from two peptides to peptides. They are all multifunctional compounds derived from protein intermediates and natural conformations.

Types and Sources of Active Biological Cosmetic Peptides

At present, peptides are mostly used in skin beauty and anti-aging, and they are mostly classified by their sources. The existing active biological peptides are mainly divided into chemically synthesized peptides, plant peptides, animal peptides, microbial peptides, and marine biological peptides.

1.Early Application of Cosmetic Peptides

The earliest application of peptide compounds in skin beauty and anti-aging cosmetics is carnosine and glutathione, two natural active peptides. They have indeed achieved good curative effects in skin whitening, sunscreen, moisturizing, anti-wrinkle and other skin care products, and have a profound effect. 

1.1 L-Carnosine

L-Carnosine , composed of Beta-alanine and histidine. L-carnosine has the functions of regulating the pH of the skin, removing excessive oxygen free radicals and their metabolites, and complexing heavy metal ions. Adding L-carnosine to beauty cosmetics can effectively slow down the aging of the skin and play a whitening role.

1.2. Glutathione

Glutathione , which is formed by condensation of glutamic acid, cysteine and glycine through peptide bonds, is a peptide containing active sulfhydryl groups. It is the best broad-spectrum small molecule antioxidant found so far. 

Glutathione can efficiently remove excessive free radicals and peroxides produced in the metabolism of skin tissue, and can defend against lipid peroxidation of mitochondria in cells, thereby protecting skin tissue and cells against aging.

2.Widely Used Cosmetic Peptides

At present, most of the cosmetic peptides related to skin beauty and anti-aging are functional peptides with small molecular weight, which are mostly prepared by chemical custom peptide synthesis.

2.1 Copper Peptide

Copper peptides are formed by condensation of glycine, histidine and lysine through peptide bonds. The real beauty peptides began with copper peptides. In 1973, American Dr. Lauren Pickart. Loren Pickart found that copper peptides are very effective in the treatment of wounds and skin injuries, not only can reduce the formation of scar tissue, but also stimulate the self-wound healing of skin damage epidermis.

Tulane University School of Medicine in New Orleans, USA also discovered that peptides can improve skin aging and increase skin elasticity.

2.2 Acetyl Hexapeptide-3

Acetyl hexapeptide-3 (also known as Argireline), also known as botulinum toxin, is one of the most widely used products in beauty peptides. Acetyl hexapeptide-3 can partially block nerve transmission of muscle contraction information, affect skin nerve conduction, relax muscles, smooth dynamic lines, static lines and fine lines, especially in reducing eye and fine wrinkles which are very effective. It is known as the skin topical botulinum toxin without subcutaneous injection.

2.3 Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 (Matrixyl) is a synthetic short peptide developed by the famous French Sederma Cosmetics Company.  Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 can Improves skin thickness, improves skin elasticity, and reduces fine lines and wrinkles on the face. At the same time, it can also improve skin moisture content and moisturizing effect, increase skin smoothness and firmness, improve skin tone, enhance luster and transparency.

2.4 Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 , its beauty effect is comparable to injection of collagen. It can increase skin firmness and promote cell-peptide activity. Added to cosmetics, it can replenish collagen for the skin, improve its elasticity, and significantly reduce facial wrinkles; it can increase skin moisture content, restore smoothness and firmness, improve skin tone, enhance luster and transparency .

2.5 Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 (Eyeseryl), can quickly remove eye bags and dark circles. The drainage effect of eye serine peptide is remarkable, and the effect of reducing bags under the eyes can be achieved within 15 days. It is a very good eye care active peptide, which can be added to various forms of eye care products such as ointment, cream, gel and lotion.

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